From Dadar to Bollywood: Inside Dharmendra's enduring friendship with the founding family of Pritam, the iconic eatery


From Dadar to Bollywood: Inside Dharmendra's enduring friendship with the founding family of Pritam, the iconic eatery

"The restaurant began in 1942 as Pritam Punjab Hindu Hotel. This was a time when Dadar was the heart of the city, and the film industry," Abhayraj reminds us. The industry was also largely dominated by the Punjabi community, including members of the Kapoor family.

For anyone who has visited the Dadar landmark, the sight of framed photographs on its wall is the immediate reminder. While the Kohlis remember Dharmendra's first visit with filmmaker Bimal Roy in the 1960s for the film Bandini (1963), the connection is far deeper. "Back in 2018, during his 84th birthday, my grandfather [Kulwant] visited him before writing a column in the newspaper, Loksatta. It was then that he [Dharmendra] revealed how he had a meal at the hotel on borrowed money," Abhayraj reveals.

A photograph of Dharmendra (fourth from left) with Kulwant Singh (second from right) at the restuarant

The story goes that the actor had arrived in Bombay after having won the Filmfare Talent Hunt in the 1960, and signed on for Arjun Hingorani's Dil Bhi Tera Hum Bhi Tere (1960). Having run out of money over the period, he would walk his way down to Ranjit Studio in Dadar East.

Even then, the famous Dal Makhani and Butter Chicken were popular lunch orders at the studios. But with no money in his pocket, the actor had to struggle and swallow his pride. As Kulwant Singh shared, the desperate Dharmendra borrowed R10 from a helpful person at the studio premises, and dropped by at Pritam for a meal.

Kulwant, Abhayraj Singh Kohli, Dharmendra and Kulwant Singh. PICS COURTESY/@pritamrestaurant

"As luck would have it, in a week, he was back again for Bimal Roy brought him here to talk about Bandini (1963). After that, he would often visit, and filmmakers would hold talks with him here," Abhayraj reveals. As for his favourites, Kohli shares, "It was not about the food for Dharam ji. The restaurant today, is not how it was. Back then, my grandfather and great grandfather would sit down with charpais, and would talk to people who would drop in." For the Punjabis in the city, the vibe was a throwback to the villages they had left far behind.

No surprise then, that much later, the restaurant created a cocktail in the honour of their iconic friend, Garam Dharam (R725). A blend of whiskey, cumin, garam masala, lime and egg give it the spice and warmth that befits the name. "The cocktail was the result of a combination of spirits and flavours that Dharam ji liked. It is warm, spiced, and with the strength that reminds you of his personality. My uncle created the cocktail, and named it after him as a tribute," Abhayraj. Now would be the ideal time to raise a toast to those cine-tinted memories that the icon left behind.

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