Blue skies and cool air scented with ripening rice fill the Ordos Plateau in Inner Mongolia, north China, every October. White dust was the only thing lifted from the barren alkaline soil by the breeze that now smells sweetly of harvest. One of China's most inspiring tales of rural renewal is the conversion of this formerly desolate area into a bustling ecotourism destination.
The terrain in Dalu Township of Zhungeer Banner has changed. Technology, ecology, and tourism have come together to reclaim the soil that was once referred to as "earth's cancer" due to its infertility. Today, visitors can see fields of gold stretching to the horizon from a 26.5-metre viewing tower in Xiaotanzi Village, demonstrating how innovation can revive land that was once thought to be dead.
The turnaround began in 2021 when modern agricultural methods were introduced to reclaim the land. Scientists and engineers designed an irrigation system that used rice paddies to flush out salt hidden deep in the soil. Over several growing seasons, the salt content dropped, and the soil structure improved. Land that could not even grow grass began producing grains of rice.
The revival was not limited to crops. The Yellow River Rice and Fish Eco-Tourism Park was established to build on the ecological and economic potential of the area. Rice and crabs now share the same paddies in a polyculture system that supports both pest control and soil fertility. Crabs feed on pests and weeds, their droppings enrich the water, and the rice canopy keeps the temperature stable. This sustainable cycle reduced chemical use and created a high-value agricultural model that supports biodiversity.
The park covers about 3,000 mu, or 200 hectares. Of that, 1,800 mu are devoted to rice-crab coexistence farming, producing more than half a million kilograms of rice each year. What once was a wasteland has turned into a productive and profitable green corridor.
To attract visitors, creativity was added to cultivation. Enormous rice-paddy artworks -- meticulously designed images created by planting rice varieties with different colours -- now decorate the fields. One of the most striking designs depicts Nezha, the bold child-god from Chinese mythology, whose rebellious spirit seems to symbolise the land's own defiance of barrenness.
A 700-metre-long glass walkway allows tourists to walk above the paddies, while tree-house homestays offer panoramic views and a peaceful rural escape. A VR experience hall immerses visitors in the story of how the fields were reborn, combining education with entertainment. From above, the combination of art, water, and agriculture creates a breathtaking view, a living gallery that changes hues with the seasons.
The site has quickly become a popular stop for travellers seeking both relaxation and a taste of rural culture. The mix of modern tourism infrastructure and traditional farming has turned a once-forgotten village into a destination of pride and prosperity.
The benefits of this transformation have been shared with the villagers. Land rental and park operations now yield around 1.4 million yuan each year, directly benefiting 258 households with a total population of 774. Over twenty villagers have steady employment within the park, earning an average of 42,000 yuan annually.
Around the park, more than 70 fish restaurants have sprung up. Each family runs its own kitchen, offering local delicacies such as crab dishes, river fish, and rice wine. Though all focus on seafood, each adds its own regional flavour or recipe passed down through generations. On weekends, people from nearby cities drive in to sample the dishes, filling the small eateries and creating a festival-like atmosphere.
The ecotourism season now brings in more than half a million yuan in direct tourism income. Local residents also run guesthouses and sell produce such as lotus roots, rice snacks, and handmade crafts. The once-quiet village is now alive with trade, laughter, and opportunity.
In nearby Dagou Village, an abandoned fish pit has been reborn as a 30-mu lotus pond. Groundwater gradually filled the depression, and the sand's natural filtration created conditions perfect for lotus roots. Each summer, pink and white blooms spread across the water, attracting not only travellers but also wildlife.
With the improvement of the local environment, birds such as herons, egrets, and wild ducks have returned. More than twenty bird species have been newly recorded in Dalu Township. The pond has become both a scenic attraction and a symbol of ecological recovery, showing how small projects can spark broader environmental change.
Zhungeer Banner lies along the path of China's Three-North Shelterbelt Forest Program -- the world's largest afforestation project, launched in 1978 to fight desertification. The banner has since completed four large-scale projects, each covering one million mu: sea-buckthorn planting, apricot orchards, management of loess sandstone terrain, and restoration of mining areas.
These projects have helped anchor soil, conserve water, and revive biodiversity. They also support rural incomes through fruit harvests, herbal cultivation, and eco-tourism. The approach follows China's national vision of "green development", combining environmental protection with economic progress. By tying ecological restoration to tangible income, local governments have ensured long-term motivation for conservation.
For travellers, Dalu Township now offers a rare combination of desert, farmland, and river views. Visitors can explore the rice-crab paddies, walk the glass skyway, or stay overnight in treehouses overlooking golden fields. In nearby areas of the Kubuqi Desert, camel rides, sand-surfing, and photography tours complement the agricultural scenery. Autumn, from September to early November, is the best time to visit, when the sky is clear and the paddies shimmer gold.
Tourism authorities in Inner Mongolia are promoting routes linking Ordos, Baotou, and Hohhot, allowing visitors to experience the region's mix of desert, grassland, and Yellow River culture. Travel infrastructure -- roads, signage, and rural lodgings -- has been steadily improved to support sustainable tourism.
More than just local prosperity is reflected in the tale of Dalu Township and its rice fields. It demonstrates how restoring the environment can lead to increased tourism, stable income, and cultural pride. Fertility has been restored to what was once barren, both in terms of soil and spirit. A sign of hope for a sustainable rural revival throughout northern China, the wind that once carried dust now carries the aroma of rice, fish, and lotus flowers.